Saturday, May 30, 2009

So stoked!


Hunter and I have been scrubbing and climbing almost daily at Tee Harbor...but I have yet to see anyone else out there. For real, you have to check this spot out - we've got 15-16 new problems out there, and still more to do!

Until it stops raining - check out this pic of Hunter on the Golden Path!

Wednesday, May 20, 2009

The Tee Harbor boulders...

You need to get there, and soon. Quick approach, incredible scenery and some of the best problems in Juneau. For real. This place is brand-spankin'-new, so there are all sorts of things to be found and done. To get there, you drive out just beyond the turn-off for Tee-Harbor and past the fire station on the right. On the left, just at the end of a guard rail, you will park at the first pull off. Remember your manners, the parking on this side of the road is for people who have houses (with the most incredible views of the Chilkats) down on the beach below. Don't block their steps and don't take up their whole parking area... you should be able to squeeze in just beyond the guard rail. Now, take a look up the hill across the street - yep, those are the boulders! A couple of minutes after parking, you'll be climbing. The main boulder you see at the top of the hill is the Room With A View boulder. It has several problems on it - a lot of them are featured on the video - the first arete you come up to is Triceradactyl Vjuggy, the left hand face of that is Beached Whale V0, Room With A View V3 is pretty obvious and the arete on the far side of the overhanging face is Pteroceratops V1. The walk off is down the top of Pteroceratops.

The RWAV boulder is the most obvious bloc, for sure, but explore a bit and you will find the Quartz Boulder, the All Your Waters Boulder and some others that no one has climbed anything on yet. Bring a brush and have at it! If you don't see chalk on it, it probably has never been tried. Let me know if you find anything good!

The highlights (in my opinion) are certainly Chill Cats and All Your Waters on the AYW boulder and Room With A View. These three problems alone are worth the drive. This is a shot of myself on All Your Waters V7. Still have yet to get it...you have to pull awfully hard on an awfully tiny crimp.


And this is Jessie MF Palomino on the FA. Props, for sure on this one.


Here is a clip I put together of some of the easier Tee Harbor problems. It was really just a ploy to get everyone to check out the Passion Pit...


Tee Harbor Bouldering from Brandon Howard on Vimeo.

If you don't feel like being in the woods, walk down to the beach and check out this rock...


And because I've been slacking lately, here is a closing picture from the Projects... where's that you say? Next time on Juneau Climbing.



Wednesday, May 6, 2009

The Lookout Boulder

The Lookout Boulder is the huge bloc you see behind Fred Meyer. Look up beyond the clearing, you can't miss. However, getting there is not as straight forward as walking through the clear cut. I'll post directions and pictures of the boulder with the routes drawn on next - but for now, here is video of two of my favorite problems on the Lookout. You can find them on the overhanging featured wall. Be warned - if you like figuring things out on your own, don't watch the videos.

Meathook SDS - V3
This problem is all of five moves, and only two are hard. It is still one of my personal favorites up there. Start on the lowest obvious crimps and head straight up the wall. Best of luck to you on the mantle...

Meathook SDS from Brandon Howard on Vimeo.


Natural Selection - V2
This problem is great - good movement on interesting holds. It starts on the same crimps as Meathook, but traverses left to a very satisfying finish.

Natural Selection from Brandon Howard on Vimeo.

Sunday, May 3, 2009

An online climbing guide...eventually

This is going to be an interesting experiment. I have been wanting to do a Juneau climbing guide book for sometime now. Juneau has a lot more climbing than you would expect, but none of it is very concentrated, and getting to areas can be challenging. My goal is to provide information on this blog, and eventually have a comprehensive guide that you could print at home. I plan on including videos of the boulder problems since they tend to be more beta intensive (and in some cases, lets be honest, contrived) than the routes. There have been a lot of new climbs going up lately, and I will try my hardest to document them so that you can get out and climb them yourselves!

For now, here is a video Paul made last year from Granite Creek Basin. Enjoy!